The First 4 Days of Travel to Machu Picchu
DAY 1:
It seems that our treks would not be consistent without some major airline mix up. This time our gear arrived (unlike last year), however Air Canada's scheduling left much to be desired.
We were due to leave at 10:30 PM May 19th on a direct flight from Toronto to Lima. Shortly after checking in our luggage, we were told our plane had been delayed....to 05:30AM on May 20th!
Not only was this a major inconvenience, but this delay set into motion a complete shift in our itinerary from which we had to recover rapidly. The first issue was our connection to Cusco which was scheduled to fly from Lima the morning of the 20th. This had to be rescheduled for the 21st, while we tried to unexpectedly book a hotel in Lima.
In the end everything worked out, but Andree (our dedicated Project Manager) was seriously working the phones.
A cathedral, not far from our hotel in the Miraflores district of Lima, evokes Spanish colonial influence like much of the architecture in this city.
In the end, Day 1 consisted of a short 3 hour sleep (to get to the airport in time for our revised flight) and a long flight to Lima where we got our first view of the Cordillera Blanca and surprisingly the extensive desert surrounding Lima.
The reason our flight was greatly delayed was the Lima fog for which the city is notorious. Lima, located on the central western coast of Peru, is large (some 8 million inhabitants), noisy, polluted and shrouded in a misty coastal fog for much of the year. When we landed visibility was no more than 5 miles or 8 kilometers.
The streets of Lima abound with activity from street vendors to the local shoe shine stand.
After checking in at the hotel we had a quick tour of the vicinity. We finished the day by dining on some local stew (the Peruvian version of Poutine: beef strips in a tomato-based broth mixed with French fries) and sipped Pisco Sour (a brandy mixed with lime juice and topped with some beaten egg white....think Margarita without the Tequila). We quickly went to bed and did not have a chance (nor the great compulsion) to partake in the Lima night life; we were due to wake up once again at 3:00AM for our flight to Cusco.
A group promoting the preservation of the Amazon basin shows Tristan some of the oversized bugs we might just encounter on this trip.
DAY 2:
Although uneventful our flight from Lima to Cusco really emphasized the mountainous nature of the country. The landing itself was reminescent of the old Hong Kong airport where the plane has to bank steeply a few times as it makes its final approach.
As we make it to our hotel, we finally get a sense of the Peru outside of Lima...a Peru dominated by Quechuan culture. The Quechua Indians (whose ancestors include the Inca ruling class) account for over 50% of the country's population...but they are also the poorest.
Quechua was the official language of the Inca Empire, who ruled much of the Andes region from the mid-1400s until the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in 1532.
Those who speak Quechua as their first language are called Quechua Indians by the dominant Spanish-speaking cultures. However, most Quechua speakers, who live in numerous distinct cultural groups, prefer to identify themselves with their Inca heritage. The Quechua refer to themselves as Runa, 'the people'.
Quechua ladies selling their goods at the local Cusco market. Visibly hundreds of different types of corn and root vegetables (including those of the potatoe family) were available, along with fresh meats of all kinds.
Although it was early morning when we arrived in Cusco, the weather was still for us surprisingly cold (32 degrees F./ 0 degrees C). In fact, Cusco is generally quite cold and dry; it has two clearly noticeable seasons: the rainy season from November to March, when the temperature rises from 11ºC to 13ºC; and, the dry season from April to October, with sunny days and very cold nights when the temperature is on average 9°C.
Cusco's main square is at an altitude of 3350m (10,990 ft.). Although this is not exceedingly high, the environment was already affecting Tristan. Tristan can be incoherent at times but in our taxi, on the way to the hotel, he really felt (and acted) very lightheaded.
Cusco's main square. Intricately carved balconies dominate the town.
Our arrival to our hotel was also our first meeting with Caro who happened to have arrived a day earlier (for some reason her flights from France managed to get her to Lima and Cusco on schedule!). The hotel was quaint and comfortable, but it was also our first introduction to the coca plant and coca tea.
A bowl of coca leaves was prominently displayed in our hotel lobby. Hot water was always provided so that guests could enjoy a "Mate de Coca" or coca tea.
We quickly learned how the coca leaf is ingrained in the local culture and economy. Coca leaves make a good tea similar in taste to Japanese green tea; the effects are mildly uplifting, much like a cup of coffee. However, the coca leaf is promoted to help contain the symptoms of altitude sickness as well as suppress hunger. It can be found everywhere including the local convenience shops that sell it in plastic bags next to the bottled water and packs of Chiclets.
The national celebration in the town of Cusco included a rather large display of military presence.
We spent the rest of the day, roaming the streets of Cusco during what happened to be a national celebration. This is when we were able to appreciate both the colonial heritage of the town as well as its ancient history. The whole city seems to be composed of a colonial shell built on the foundations of the ancient Inca empire, for which Cusco was at one time the capital. The word Cusco comes from the Quechuan "Qosqo" which means navel.
This wall is part of the Koricancha, the Inca Temple of the Sun, above which the Spaniards built the Church of Santo Domingo. It includes a rather famous 12 sided cut stone that is a testament to Inca skills in masonry. A major earthquake that hit Cusco in 1950 badly destroyed the church. The city's Inca architecture, however, firmly withstood the earthquake and the old Inca walls which were thought to have been lost were exposed throughout the city.
Caro is quick to make friends and while waiting for us had made the acquaintance of a very, very personnable Peruvian girl whose name was "Brandy". She would later proudly explain that she was probably the only Peruvian called Brandy. Also very proud of her country, Brandy quickly took us under her wing and effectively pressed us to go see an archeological site local to Cusco, that few tourists ever visit: Tipon.
Getting to Tipon was an adventure in itself. The site is 23 km from Cusco so Brandy had us take the local "bus", a minivan packed to the rim with locals. After inhaling dust and diesel fumes for what seemed like an eternity, we were dropped off in the middle of a few "Cuyeria" and their associated street vendors. A Cuyeria is a restaurant of sort that specializes in "Cuy Al Horno": baked Guinea Pig...a local specialty and something we were determined to eventually taste.
How do you fit 8 people in a small car...put 3 brave souls in the trunk. Caro and I wait for Tristan (the photographer for this shot) to join us in the back end of this Toyota.
From there, the travel became even more precarious as we hopped on to a small taxi cab. This is where we learned how to seat 8 people in a cab that would normally take only 3 passengers! In the end it was yours truly, Tristan and Caro in the back end (i.e. trunk of the car), with a door that did not close properly. As we went up the slopes of the mountain to where the Tipon Archaeological site was located, we were litterally sufficating in dust! The whole thing was so ridiculous we could'nt help laughing which to our dismay meant we just ingested more dust.
Tipon is the remnant of a town consisting of royal rooms, water fountains and incredibibly well preserved terrasses. It is considered one of the most important architectural complexes found in the Cusco region. This old town is located southeast of the Inca capital at a height of 3,560 metres (11,680 ft.) above sea level; the highest area of the park is found at the pass of Ranraq'asa above 3,800 meters (12,470 ft.).
Tipon Archaeological Park. The terrases are immense but lose their significance against the scale of the mountain.
The Inca terrasses of Tipon are still fed from spring water. Here is the source of all this water and here Inca masonry amazingly creates a Zen-like atmosphere.
As we approached the archaeological park, Connie was not feeling well; perhaps it was the heat or the altitude but she was beggining to feel very dizzy. As such, we had to leave her behind at the entrance of the site. This was worrisome since we were far from the altitudes we were expecting to reach on our trek. However, as we progressed on our adventure, this was the last time Connie had any major difficulty. In fact, with the exception of Steve and Caro, each one of us faced at least one "bad day".
A view of the terasses from one of the royal "apartments".
For me this day did have a lasting effect. I was not prepared for a sunny walk in the mountains. Without hat and sun screen, I ended up with a massive sunburn on the top of my head...not a smart way to start a trek.
Upon our return to Cusco, we were briefed in our hotel by our first guide: Ruben. He was there to give us another piece of "bad" news that would affect our itinerary. The following morning we were expected to be dropped off at km104 of the Inca Trail. From there we would hike to Machu Picchu. The problem: two major landslides had closed the trail. Our only valid option was to go straight to the archeological site and hike the two mountains surrounding the ancient Inca city.
Before heading off for dinner, Brandy invites us for Cusquena (the local beer). In this small, dark tavern here is Steve with dry roasted corn in the foreground....a perfect complement to the local brew.
With this bit of news, we finished off the day with a meal at the local restaurant in the company of our new-found Peruvian friend, Brandy. This is where we had our first taste of Alpaca (similar to beef in both taste and texture).
The Alpaca is a Cameloid that resembles the Llama. It is treasured for its very soft wool which is similar in many ways to Cashmere. Today, the Peruvian government maintains the Alpaca as a national resource and seeks to control the supply of fleece by limiting the export of Alpaca breeding stock. Of the world's commercial fibers, only Vicuna (another South American Cameloid) is more rare than Alpaca.
DAY 3:
Once again we have to get up early: 04:00AM. For Tristan, it is very difficult. Although like all of us (with the exception of Caro), he is on Diamox (a drug to help us adapt to altitude), Tristan suffered from sleep apnea all night.
Apnea is a symptom of altitude sickness. The best way to describe it is to think of how you might feel if every time you fell asleep someone places a plastic bag over your head. You continuously awake with the fear of suffication as your body struggles to get enough oxygen.
The early start is scheduled so that we might take a train for a 3 1/2 hour journey from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, a small town on the outskirts of the Machu Picchu Archaeological site.... some 70 km north west of Cusco. The journey to Aguas Calientes is uneventful, but as the short distance covered in the 3 1/2 hours would attest, the scenery as we cross the mountain range is phenominal.
Our diesel driven train winds its way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes.
Once we arrive in the town we quickly check into our hotel, which is wonderfully situated to overlook the Urubamba river and the local rapids. This beautiful river runs from the high Andean ranges down through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, past Machu Picchu and into the jungle.
Outside our hotel in Aguas Calientes, the beautiful rapids of the Urubamba river .
As recommended by our guide, we do not waste much time at the hotel, but instead we quickly hop on a bus to take a 45 minute drive, up a very winding mountain road to Machu Picchu. The distance itelf is only some 8 km!
The Archeological site of Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It actually sits on a "saddle" between 2 mountains: Machu Picchu Mountain and Wayna Picchu. Our objective for this first day of trekking is to warm up by climbing Machu Picchu Mountain, the one least travelled by tourists.
As we climb Machu Picchu Mountain, we leave behind the archaeological site in all its glory.
The climb is hot and difficult since most of the trail is covered by ancient steps. It is much like doing stairmasters for 3 hours in a jungle-like hot and steamy atmosphere. As we went from roughly 2400 m/7900 ft. (site of the ruins) to 3200 m/10500 ft. (the mountain peak), for me this was actually the most demanding climb of the trip.
As Andree will attest, climbing up ancient stairs thru the carved stone of this mountain made up the most part of this day's hike.
Amazing flora like these 40cm (16 in.) flowers on 3 m (10 ft.) tree-like stems, or multiple varieties of orchids like these small orange and pink species reminded us that we were actually not far from the Amazon basin.
The end of the day was spent in the heart of the town of Aguas Calientes where we finally had a taste of Cuy (Guinea Pig), thanks to Tristan who had the courage to order it. When it arrived on his plate, I must admit that with its head and jarring teeth, and its little paws spread aside, it certainly did look like "road kill". And no it does not taste like chicken...nor even rabitt. Cuy is actually very fatty or greasy and somewhat reminescent of duck.
Yours truly at the peak of the mountain with the Machu Picchu archaeological site in the background.
DAY 4:
For this last day in the area, we were determined to get the most of our stay in Machu Picchu. We started the day early with a very detailed tour of the site with our guide Ruben. Starting early also gave us a great opportunity to see the mountains and the site at its eery best, with mist rising from the slopes of the hills enveloping the ancient town in a ghost-like atmosphere.
The city of Machu Picchu enveloped in an eery morning mist.
A view of the misty mountains from the sleeping quarters of the Inca high priest.
The Temple of the Sun. Inside this building an altar can be seen on which the light from a small window is projected. At summer solstice this light is centered on the altar. Similarly another window (hidden, but to the right of the building) projects a light on the center of the altar during the winter solstice.
The terasses of Machi Picchu. Tristan wondered how the grass was so well maintained....we were quickly introduced to the solution: Llamas. They were often spotted and constantly grazing.
We followed our tour of the site, with a quick hike up the other mountain: Wayna Picchu. This hike only took us to 2600 m (8530 ft.) but was encumbered by many tourists, making it a rather slow climb.
Below Wayna Picchu we see the Urubamba River which looks rather insignificant at this height.
The hike up Wayna Picchu is short but very steep. Take a good look at the individuals here disappearing as small white spots along the trail.
Below us the precarious road taken by our bus; it is now evident why a mere 8 km. takes more than 45 minutes!
At this point we discovered Andree had a bit of a fear of confined spaces. To reach the top of the mountain requires a crawl thru a small grotto finishing into a climb up tiny ancient steps that exit thru a rather small hole in the rock of the mountain. We had to leave Andree behind, make our way up the remaining 20 m and join her on the way back by circling the peak.
Tristan extricates himself from the grotto in order to reach the peak.
This is also where Caro indicated she had a fear of heights! For a lady that had already climbed Kilimanjaro and the Aconcagua of Argentina (the highest peak in the Andes) this was hard to believe. It turns our that she does not like going down or be at the edge of very steep slopes and in this case, we were forced to go down small ancient steps no wider than 15 cm or 6 inches under very steep conditions. In fact, Tristan was joking that one tourist slipping on that site would take a whole group down.
Connie carefully makes her way down the steep slope on tiny Inca steps.
I actually finished this hike being very stiff. Obviously, once again, I had not prepared myself very well for this expedition.
The afternoon ended for us with the train trip back to Cusco. We were actually surprised when the train crew actually transformed thelmselves to entertain us. The luggage porter presented a local traditional dance, while the others performed a fashion show...of Alpaca wool of course.
The train's luggage porter transformed himself to perform a local traditional dance...and scared a few passengers in the process.
It seems that our treks would not be consistent without some major airline mix up. This time our gear arrived (unlike last year), however Air Canada's scheduling left much to be desired.
We were due to leave at 10:30 PM May 19th on a direct flight from Toronto to Lima. Shortly after checking in our luggage, we were told our plane had been delayed....to 05:30AM on May 20th!
Not only was this a major inconvenience, but this delay set into motion a complete shift in our itinerary from which we had to recover rapidly. The first issue was our connection to Cusco which was scheduled to fly from Lima the morning of the 20th. This had to be rescheduled for the 21st, while we tried to unexpectedly book a hotel in Lima.
In the end everything worked out, but Andree (our dedicated Project Manager) was seriously working the phones.
A cathedral, not far from our hotel in the Miraflores district of Lima, evokes Spanish colonial influence like much of the architecture in this city.
In the end, Day 1 consisted of a short 3 hour sleep (to get to the airport in time for our revised flight) and a long flight to Lima where we got our first view of the Cordillera Blanca and surprisingly the extensive desert surrounding Lima.
The reason our flight was greatly delayed was the Lima fog for which the city is notorious. Lima, located on the central western coast of Peru, is large (some 8 million inhabitants), noisy, polluted and shrouded in a misty coastal fog for much of the year. When we landed visibility was no more than 5 miles or 8 kilometers.
The streets of Lima abound with activity from street vendors to the local shoe shine stand.
After checking in at the hotel we had a quick tour of the vicinity. We finished the day by dining on some local stew (the Peruvian version of Poutine: beef strips in a tomato-based broth mixed with French fries) and sipped Pisco Sour (a brandy mixed with lime juice and topped with some beaten egg white....think Margarita without the Tequila). We quickly went to bed and did not have a chance (nor the great compulsion) to partake in the Lima night life; we were due to wake up once again at 3:00AM for our flight to Cusco.
A group promoting the preservation of the Amazon basin shows Tristan some of the oversized bugs we might just encounter on this trip.
DAY 2:
Although uneventful our flight from Lima to Cusco really emphasized the mountainous nature of the country. The landing itself was reminescent of the old Hong Kong airport where the plane has to bank steeply a few times as it makes its final approach.
As we make it to our hotel, we finally get a sense of the Peru outside of Lima...a Peru dominated by Quechuan culture. The Quechua Indians (whose ancestors include the Inca ruling class) account for over 50% of the country's population...but they are also the poorest.
Quechua was the official language of the Inca Empire, who ruled much of the Andes region from the mid-1400s until the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in 1532.
Those who speak Quechua as their first language are called Quechua Indians by the dominant Spanish-speaking cultures. However, most Quechua speakers, who live in numerous distinct cultural groups, prefer to identify themselves with their Inca heritage. The Quechua refer to themselves as Runa, 'the people'.
Quechua ladies selling their goods at the local Cusco market. Visibly hundreds of different types of corn and root vegetables (including those of the potatoe family) were available, along with fresh meats of all kinds.
Although it was early morning when we arrived in Cusco, the weather was still for us surprisingly cold (32 degrees F./ 0 degrees C). In fact, Cusco is generally quite cold and dry; it has two clearly noticeable seasons: the rainy season from November to March, when the temperature rises from 11ºC to 13ºC; and, the dry season from April to October, with sunny days and very cold nights when the temperature is on average 9°C.
Cusco's main square is at an altitude of 3350m (10,990 ft.). Although this is not exceedingly high, the environment was already affecting Tristan. Tristan can be incoherent at times but in our taxi, on the way to the hotel, he really felt (and acted) very lightheaded.
Cusco's main square. Intricately carved balconies dominate the town.
Our arrival to our hotel was also our first meeting with Caro who happened to have arrived a day earlier (for some reason her flights from France managed to get her to Lima and Cusco on schedule!). The hotel was quaint and comfortable, but it was also our first introduction to the coca plant and coca tea.
A bowl of coca leaves was prominently displayed in our hotel lobby. Hot water was always provided so that guests could enjoy a "Mate de Coca" or coca tea.
We quickly learned how the coca leaf is ingrained in the local culture and economy. Coca leaves make a good tea similar in taste to Japanese green tea; the effects are mildly uplifting, much like a cup of coffee. However, the coca leaf is promoted to help contain the symptoms of altitude sickness as well as suppress hunger. It can be found everywhere including the local convenience shops that sell it in plastic bags next to the bottled water and packs of Chiclets.
The national celebration in the town of Cusco included a rather large display of military presence.
We spent the rest of the day, roaming the streets of Cusco during what happened to be a national celebration. This is when we were able to appreciate both the colonial heritage of the town as well as its ancient history. The whole city seems to be composed of a colonial shell built on the foundations of the ancient Inca empire, for which Cusco was at one time the capital. The word Cusco comes from the Quechuan "Qosqo" which means navel.
This wall is part of the Koricancha, the Inca Temple of the Sun, above which the Spaniards built the Church of Santo Domingo. It includes a rather famous 12 sided cut stone that is a testament to Inca skills in masonry. A major earthquake that hit Cusco in 1950 badly destroyed the church. The city's Inca architecture, however, firmly withstood the earthquake and the old Inca walls which were thought to have been lost were exposed throughout the city.
Caro is quick to make friends and while waiting for us had made the acquaintance of a very, very personnable Peruvian girl whose name was "Brandy". She would later proudly explain that she was probably the only Peruvian called Brandy. Also very proud of her country, Brandy quickly took us under her wing and effectively pressed us to go see an archeological site local to Cusco, that few tourists ever visit: Tipon.
Getting to Tipon was an adventure in itself. The site is 23 km from Cusco so Brandy had us take the local "bus", a minivan packed to the rim with locals. After inhaling dust and diesel fumes for what seemed like an eternity, we were dropped off in the middle of a few "Cuyeria" and their associated street vendors. A Cuyeria is a restaurant of sort that specializes in "Cuy Al Horno": baked Guinea Pig...a local specialty and something we were determined to eventually taste.
How do you fit 8 people in a small car...put 3 brave souls in the trunk. Caro and I wait for Tristan (the photographer for this shot) to join us in the back end of this Toyota.
From there, the travel became even more precarious as we hopped on to a small taxi cab. This is where we learned how to seat 8 people in a cab that would normally take only 3 passengers! In the end it was yours truly, Tristan and Caro in the back end (i.e. trunk of the car), with a door that did not close properly. As we went up the slopes of the mountain to where the Tipon Archaeological site was located, we were litterally sufficating in dust! The whole thing was so ridiculous we could'nt help laughing which to our dismay meant we just ingested more dust.
Tipon is the remnant of a town consisting of royal rooms, water fountains and incredibibly well preserved terrasses. It is considered one of the most important architectural complexes found in the Cusco region. This old town is located southeast of the Inca capital at a height of 3,560 metres (11,680 ft.) above sea level; the highest area of the park is found at the pass of Ranraq'asa above 3,800 meters (12,470 ft.).
Tipon Archaeological Park. The terrases are immense but lose their significance against the scale of the mountain.
The Inca terrasses of Tipon are still fed from spring water. Here is the source of all this water and here Inca masonry amazingly creates a Zen-like atmosphere.
As we approached the archaeological park, Connie was not feeling well; perhaps it was the heat or the altitude but she was beggining to feel very dizzy. As such, we had to leave her behind at the entrance of the site. This was worrisome since we were far from the altitudes we were expecting to reach on our trek. However, as we progressed on our adventure, this was the last time Connie had any major difficulty. In fact, with the exception of Steve and Caro, each one of us faced at least one "bad day".
A view of the terasses from one of the royal "apartments".
For me this day did have a lasting effect. I was not prepared for a sunny walk in the mountains. Without hat and sun screen, I ended up with a massive sunburn on the top of my head...not a smart way to start a trek.
Upon our return to Cusco, we were briefed in our hotel by our first guide: Ruben. He was there to give us another piece of "bad" news that would affect our itinerary. The following morning we were expected to be dropped off at km104 of the Inca Trail. From there we would hike to Machu Picchu. The problem: two major landslides had closed the trail. Our only valid option was to go straight to the archeological site and hike the two mountains surrounding the ancient Inca city.
Before heading off for dinner, Brandy invites us for Cusquena (the local beer). In this small, dark tavern here is Steve with dry roasted corn in the foreground....a perfect complement to the local brew.
With this bit of news, we finished off the day with a meal at the local restaurant in the company of our new-found Peruvian friend, Brandy. This is where we had our first taste of Alpaca (similar to beef in both taste and texture).
The Alpaca is a Cameloid that resembles the Llama. It is treasured for its very soft wool which is similar in many ways to Cashmere. Today, the Peruvian government maintains the Alpaca as a national resource and seeks to control the supply of fleece by limiting the export of Alpaca breeding stock. Of the world's commercial fibers, only Vicuna (another South American Cameloid) is more rare than Alpaca.
DAY 3:
Once again we have to get up early: 04:00AM. For Tristan, it is very difficult. Although like all of us (with the exception of Caro), he is on Diamox (a drug to help us adapt to altitude), Tristan suffered from sleep apnea all night.
Apnea is a symptom of altitude sickness. The best way to describe it is to think of how you might feel if every time you fell asleep someone places a plastic bag over your head. You continuously awake with the fear of suffication as your body struggles to get enough oxygen.
The early start is scheduled so that we might take a train for a 3 1/2 hour journey from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, a small town on the outskirts of the Machu Picchu Archaeological site.... some 70 km north west of Cusco. The journey to Aguas Calientes is uneventful, but as the short distance covered in the 3 1/2 hours would attest, the scenery as we cross the mountain range is phenominal.
Our diesel driven train winds its way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes.
Once we arrive in the town we quickly check into our hotel, which is wonderfully situated to overlook the Urubamba river and the local rapids. This beautiful river runs from the high Andean ranges down through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, past Machu Picchu and into the jungle.
Outside our hotel in Aguas Calientes, the beautiful rapids of the Urubamba river .
As recommended by our guide, we do not waste much time at the hotel, but instead we quickly hop on a bus to take a 45 minute drive, up a very winding mountain road to Machu Picchu. The distance itelf is only some 8 km!
The Archeological site of Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It actually sits on a "saddle" between 2 mountains: Machu Picchu Mountain and Wayna Picchu. Our objective for this first day of trekking is to warm up by climbing Machu Picchu Mountain, the one least travelled by tourists.
As we climb Machu Picchu Mountain, we leave behind the archaeological site in all its glory.
The climb is hot and difficult since most of the trail is covered by ancient steps. It is much like doing stairmasters for 3 hours in a jungle-like hot and steamy atmosphere. As we went from roughly 2400 m/7900 ft. (site of the ruins) to 3200 m/10500 ft. (the mountain peak), for me this was actually the most demanding climb of the trip.
As Andree will attest, climbing up ancient stairs thru the carved stone of this mountain made up the most part of this day's hike.
Amazing flora like these 40cm (16 in.) flowers on 3 m (10 ft.) tree-like stems, or multiple varieties of orchids like these small orange and pink species reminded us that we were actually not far from the Amazon basin.
The end of the day was spent in the heart of the town of Aguas Calientes where we finally had a taste of Cuy (Guinea Pig), thanks to Tristan who had the courage to order it. When it arrived on his plate, I must admit that with its head and jarring teeth, and its little paws spread aside, it certainly did look like "road kill". And no it does not taste like chicken...nor even rabitt. Cuy is actually very fatty or greasy and somewhat reminescent of duck.
Yours truly at the peak of the mountain with the Machu Picchu archaeological site in the background.
DAY 4:
For this last day in the area, we were determined to get the most of our stay in Machu Picchu. We started the day early with a very detailed tour of the site with our guide Ruben. Starting early also gave us a great opportunity to see the mountains and the site at its eery best, with mist rising from the slopes of the hills enveloping the ancient town in a ghost-like atmosphere.
The city of Machu Picchu enveloped in an eery morning mist.
A view of the misty mountains from the sleeping quarters of the Inca high priest.
The Temple of the Sun. Inside this building an altar can be seen on which the light from a small window is projected. At summer solstice this light is centered on the altar. Similarly another window (hidden, but to the right of the building) projects a light on the center of the altar during the winter solstice.
The terasses of Machi Picchu. Tristan wondered how the grass was so well maintained....we were quickly introduced to the solution: Llamas. They were often spotted and constantly grazing.
We followed our tour of the site, with a quick hike up the other mountain: Wayna Picchu. This hike only took us to 2600 m (8530 ft.) but was encumbered by many tourists, making it a rather slow climb.
Below Wayna Picchu we see the Urubamba River which looks rather insignificant at this height.
The hike up Wayna Picchu is short but very steep. Take a good look at the individuals here disappearing as small white spots along the trail.
Below us the precarious road taken by our bus; it is now evident why a mere 8 km. takes more than 45 minutes!
At this point we discovered Andree had a bit of a fear of confined spaces. To reach the top of the mountain requires a crawl thru a small grotto finishing into a climb up tiny ancient steps that exit thru a rather small hole in the rock of the mountain. We had to leave Andree behind, make our way up the remaining 20 m and join her on the way back by circling the peak.
Tristan extricates himself from the grotto in order to reach the peak.
This is also where Caro indicated she had a fear of heights! For a lady that had already climbed Kilimanjaro and the Aconcagua of Argentina (the highest peak in the Andes) this was hard to believe. It turns our that she does not like going down or be at the edge of very steep slopes and in this case, we were forced to go down small ancient steps no wider than 15 cm or 6 inches under very steep conditions. In fact, Tristan was joking that one tourist slipping on that site would take a whole group down.
Connie carefully makes her way down the steep slope on tiny Inca steps.
I actually finished this hike being very stiff. Obviously, once again, I had not prepared myself very well for this expedition.
The afternoon ended for us with the train trip back to Cusco. We were actually surprised when the train crew actually transformed thelmselves to entertain us. The luggage porter presented a local traditional dance, while the others performed a fashion show...of Alpaca wool of course.
The train's luggage porter transformed himself to perform a local traditional dance...and scared a few passengers in the process.
posted by Unknown at 12:19 PM
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